The Most Isolated Town in America
In the heart of Alaska, where snow-capped peaks meet vast expanses of wilderness, lies McCarthy—arguably the most isolated town in America. Surrounded by the untamed beauty of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, McCarthy offers a glimpse into a way of life shaped by the land itself. The town's remote location, combined with its unique history and slow pace of life, make it a fascinating destination for adventurers, nature lovers, and anyone seeking solitude.
A Remote Journey to McCarthy
The first challenge in visiting McCarthy is the journey itself. Whether you're driving or flying, getting to McCarthy is part of the experience—and a memorable one at that. The road leading to the town, the McCarthy Road, is an adventure in itself. Stretching for 60 miles from the small town of Chitina, this gravel path cuts through rugged landscapes, offering sweeping views of the Alaskan wilderness. The road is narrow and bumpy, with occasional potholes and loose gravel. This part of the trip is best undertaken in a sturdy vehicle, ideally a 4x4, as many rental car companies do not allow their vehicles on non-paved roads.
For those up for the drive, expect approximately seven hours from Anchorage or eight hours from Fairbanks to reach the turnoff for McCarthy. Once you arrive at the end of the road, you'll park your vehicle and cross a footbridge into McCarthy itself—cars aren’t allowed in town. This footbridge is symbolic of the isolation of the town, and the walk across it serves as a gentle reminder that time here moves at its own pace.
For those preferring to fly, Copper Valley Air Service offers scheduled flights from Anchorage, while Wrangell Mountain Air provides flights from nearby Glennallen and Chitina. These scenic flights add to the allure of visiting such a remote place, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
McCarthy's History
McCarthy’s history is intrinsically linked to the nearby Kennicott mine, a once-thriving copper mine that played a pivotal role in the town’s rise and fall. Established in the early 20th century, McCarthy’s origins trace back to the indigenous Ahtna people, who had lived in the area for centuries. However, it was the development of Kennicott, driven by copper mining, that truly put McCarthy on the map.
The Copper River and Northwestern Railway, established in 1911, helped bring people and goods to McCarthy, and the town quickly grew as a satellite of the mining town. McCarthy became the bustling hub for those seeking entertainment and refuge—bars, saloons, and other establishments were thriving. In fact, it was said that McCarthy was the place for the things that Kennicott itself had banned. With its rough-and-tumble atmosphere, the town was a far cry from the regulated world of the nearby mine.
However, McCarthy’s boom didn’t last long. By 1938, the Kennicott mine closed, and with it, the flow of people and resources into the area dwindled. The railway service was discontinued, and McCarthy fell into disrepair. By the early 1970s, the town had nearly emptied, with only a few residents remaining in the area.
Despite the decline, McCarthy never truly disappeared. The surrounding wilderness remained as breathtaking as ever, and the town’s isolation gave it an eerie charm. In the years that followed, the town began to attract a small but steady stream of visitors, drawn by the natural beauty of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, which was designated a national park in 1980.
McCarthy Today
Today, McCarthy is home to around 30 permanent residents, with the population swelling tenfold in the summer months as tourists flock to the area to experience its unique blend of history, nature, and tranquility. The town remains remote, with a population density of just 0.2 people per square mile, which only adds to its allure.
The town’s location on the edge of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park means that visitors are surrounded by 13 million acres of wilderness. The park, which is the largest national park in the United States, is a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts—hiking, backpacking, and wildlife viewing are just a few of the activities that draw visitors to the area. Whether you're exploring the vast glaciers, crossing the rugged terrain on foot, or simply soaking in the breathtaking views, McCarthy serves as the gateway to it all.
Though the town is small, there are a variety of accommodations available, ranging from rustic bed and breakfasts and cabins to larger lodges in nearby Kennicott. For those looking to embrace the town’s frontier spirit, there are camping areas around town, with Glacier View Campground offering hearty fare from its owner, Chris, along with a cozy atmosphere for visitors to enjoy.
A Town Like No Other
McCarthy’s population may be small, but the town thrives on a spirit of community. The people who choose to live here do so for a variety of reasons—some are drawn by the quiet, others by the proximity to nature, and some simply seek the rugged lifestyle that the area demands. Most of McCarthy’s residents are deeply connected to the land, with many working in the tourism industry or engaging in subsistence activities like fishing, hunting, and foraging.
Living in McCarthy is not for everyone—it requires resilience, a love for isolation, and a willingness to embrace the challenges that come with living in such a remote location. With only limited access to amenities and services, daily life can be a balancing act. There is no grocery store, and visitors are advised to bring provisions with them. However, the town’s businesses offer everything needed for a comfortable stay: restaurants like the Golden Saloon, which serves local fare, and The Potato, a new eatery that has quickly become a favorite. For a more upscale dining experience, the Kennicott Glacier Lodge offers delicious meals in a serene setting.
While McCarthy remains isolated in many ways, it is not without modern conveniences. Visitors can find some cell service, with Verizon, Sprint, T-Mobile, and Alaska-based providers working in the area. However, it’s worth noting that cell reception is spotty, so don't expect constant connection to the outside world. In McCarthy, time moves at a slower pace, and that’s part of its charm.
The Unexpected Tourism Boom
Despite its isolation, McCarthy has experienced an unexpected tourism boom in recent years. The draw of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is undeniable, but the town itself has also become a sought-after destination. The combination of history, natural beauty, and an off-the-beaten-path atmosphere has made McCarthy a must-visit for adventurers looking to explore one of the last frontiers in the United States.
Tourism in McCarthy remains a vital part of the local economy, providing a steady income for residents and small businesses. However, the town has managed to retain its rustic charm despite the influx of visitors. While McCarthy may no longer be the sleepy, nearly abandoned town it once was, it still holds onto a sense of peaceful solitude that makes it unique.
For visitors, McCarthy offers an unparalleled experience—whether you’re hiking on glaciers, exploring the ghostly remnants of the Kennicott mining operation, or simply relaxing in a local cafe, there’s a sense that time slows down here. The wilderness is always present, a reminder that in McCarthy, nature is both a companion and a protector.
Conclusion
McCarthy, Alaska, is a town like no other. It offers a rare opportunity to experience life in one of the most remote corners of the US, surrounded by towering mountains, expansive glaciers, and the silence of the wilderness. Whether you're drawn to the area for its rich history, its stunning landscapes, or the chance to escape the modern world, McCarthy delivers an experience that few other places can offer.
The town’s isolation is both its challenge and its appeal. Life here is simple, but it is also deeply fulfilling, offering a unique sense of freedom and connection to nature. In McCarthy, the pace of life is set by the rhythms of the land, and its residents—whether permanent or temporary—are bound by the same deep respect for the wild spaces that surround them. For those willing to make the journey, McCarthy offers a glimpse into a way of life that remains largely untouched by time.